Back to Lhasa and Lake Yamdrok

After yesterday’s work we had nothing on our tour program except to return to town. Which we did with several toilet stops. Since the air was so dry we had to drink a lot. And as long as you can pee you don’t have a health issue or so according to Dr. Sylvia. Whatever, we were all very healthy.

We made it back to our hotel and after a power nap of 2 hours we once again took the bus downtown. As I said before Sylvia was fed up with Chinese food so we went to Lhasa kitchen (the restaurant from the first day) again. There in the dining room was also an old picture of Lhasa on how it had looked before it was remodeled into a Chinese satellite city.IMG_1828
On the way into town we had noticed at the bus stop a coffee place where someone spoke German.IMG_1830 IMG_1831 But on the way to it I saw a street seller with a bracelet I liked and haggled with her until the price was right. And what a surprise, Sylvia bought it for me as birthday gift, so I will have something from her with me for the rest of the trip! I think she would have preferred to travel further with me, but now the bracelet will do it in her stead.IMG_2831

And it was to this German café that we went after dinner to enjoy a cup of excellent coffee and a cheese cake made from yak curd. Delicious!! The owner of the little place had lived for 15 years in Switzerland and also in Vorarlberg. It was such a pleasure to talk to someone in German here. Definitely worth a visit if you are ever in Lhasa.IMG_1967

After coffee we went home and that was it for day 5 in Tibet. Suddenly it was already our last full day. Since we had had enough of the monasteries we had asked on the second day for a change and instead of seeing more religious places we went to see Yamdrok lake.

Another scenic drive awaited us and we made several stops on the way (also for the police when necessary).IMG_1833 IMG_1836 IMG_1837 IMG_1843 IMG_1848 IMG_1855 IMG_1856 IMG_1862 IMG_1865 IMG_1867 IMG_1868IMG_1871 IMG_1872 IMG_1963 IMG_1880 IMG_1881

The lake was beautiful but since the sky was a bit overcast the view was lacking. Still we had a good time taking more pictures and it was clearly preferable to more monasteries. At the pass it was so quite cold and Sylvia said that she saw flurries in the air. It was definitely nippy at 4441m.IMG_1882 IMG_1883 IMG_1966 IMG_1895 IMG_1896 IMG_1900 IMG_1915 IMG_1917 IMG_1920 IMG_1921 IMG_1922

We drove back to the hotel and agreed on a time for our ‘Welcome Dinner’. Since we had missed to do that on the second evening we made it into a farewell dinner.

Another bus ride into the city (by then we felt like locals) and we met Dundhup at his favorite tea house in the center. Restaurants have a grading system A to C with A being indicated with a green smiley and C with a red mean face, ours had a C (probably already a health hazard).

We were greeted by our guide at the door and set down at a table on which a rag laid that I wouldn’t even use to clean the toilet. But here it was good enough to clean the table and also to stay on it for the entire dinner. And still the food was yummy, so we all need to relax with the hygiene standards.
We each had a soup (mine with yak) and then rice with more vegetables. It was served with pickled radishes which were so good that Sylvia asked for seconds and thirds (and then drank the pickle juice).IMG_1972
Then it was time to make the bus ride home while Dundhup jumped on his electric bike with a pink license plate! Yours, Pollybert

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More of Lhasa

The next day started a bit slower and we only met at 9:30. I enjoyed my Chinese breakfast with stuffed baozi and some spicy vegetables.IMG_1593Today we had more monasteries on our program and thus fortified we were on the way. The first one was the  Drepung Monastery.

After a short drive we saw first of all some dogs.IMG_1596 IMG_1602 IMG_1603 IMG_1700 IMG_1609 IMG_1612
Here the Buddhists paint the stones surrounding the monastery every September when there is a big religious festival.IMG_1614
There we also found the most astonishing toilets (and relatively clean compared to some others that we saw on this trip). IMG_1631

The monastery of course was beautiful too, more from the outside than the inside. Inside in the little side temples and nooks it felt more like a creepy place than a religious temple. The protectors next to the Buddha statues looked like demons (which they actually were before the got vanquished).IMG_1615 IMG_1617 IMG_1619 IMG_1623 IMG_1626 IMG_1627
As usual there were no pictures allowed inside but I sneaked one in of the stairs. They were always super steep and dangerous.
In front of the prayer halls there were always huge pillars with prayer flags. Visiting all these places I felt really calm and at peace while Sylvia disliked the disturbing images inside.IMG_1635 IMG_1637 IMG_1638 IMG_1639 IMG_1641IMG_1653IMG_1656

For lunch we went to a little tea house and had some simple Tibetan fare. Rice with vegetables and some yak meat for me and the same for Sylvia without the yak.

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After lunch the next monastery, now the Sera Monastery. After the third one it felt like more of the same. Still, we had to show a certain interest because our guide was so clearly into it. Sylvia bought herself a little prayer, you never know it might help.IMG_1664 IMG_1667 IMG_1668 IMG_1670

 

From there we were driven downtown again to go shopping but eventually just stopped by at our guide’s tea house, enjoyed some teaIMG_1673
and then ended up in a shopping mall in search of a washroom. My little dictionary from Vienna for Chinese came in very handy again.

At the mall we bought some ‘juice’ by tapping our finger at the right drink. Clearly there are not a lot of English speaking people in this country.IMG_1675

I also bought myself a pair of shoes and a long-sleeved shirt. The mall was definitely a success. To top it all we managed to get on the right bus and were back in our area no time.IMG_1683IMG_1684 IMG_1685
But on the short walk back to the hotel we were drawn into a Chinese restaurant with the words ‘Come in, come in’. But that was the extent of the English words of the owner. From then on it was looking at the pics in the menus and using the dictionary again.

We managed to order though we apparently made a mess of things because what we got was enough dinner for 10 people. Please note that the dishes were individually plastic wrapped for each customer.IMG_1689IMG_1695
Also they didn’t seem to understand that when Sylvia means no meat then there should be no meat. Meaning even though there was no meat in the soup, it counts as meat when it is a chicken soup base and a little worm on top of some green leave. So that was it for Sylvia with the Chinese food, we didn’t go again together.
Yours, Pollybert