What I learned in Tibet

This has also become a regular feature on my blog. Here are my observations from Tibet.

1. There is a police station/desk every corner. So carrying your passport and visa is a mandatory.

2. Sweet tea with yak milk is heavenly. Just don’t look too closely on what it’s served in.

3. People in Lhasa wear more face masks than in Beijing (said Sylvia and I now have to agree).

4. I should have bought a yak shawl while in Kathmandu. Never mind, too late now.

5. The Tibetans eat solely with a spoon.

6. The smell of the butter in the temples is almost intoxicating.

7. Also the butter is spilled everywhere in the temples, so get used to sticky feet.

8. There are only so many monasteries you can watch.

9. If you are wondering what kind of philosophical questions a monk might have for you, the monk we saw wanted to know if I color my hair.

10. The Chinese in Tibet were the unfriendliest of all of China. Maybe because they know they don’t belong there?

Riding the elephant

Our last day at the Hermitage Hotel started again at 6pm. This morning there was no breakfast waiting but rather a cup of tea before we headed off to the elephant meeting place at the edge of the jungle.IMG_1097

Sylvia and I were the first to get on and the third person with us on board was an American Greenpeace worker from Peru. Our driver was clearly used to all kinds of tourists because from the first he started to entertain us. But not only that he also turned out to be gifted spotter and with his help I finally saw a rhinoceros close up in wild life (Sylvia, ever the sceptic, thinks that these rhinoceros are part of the show). We actually saw a lot of other animals too, but I figure that wild pigs, deer and wild chickens are compared to the rhinos not so interesting, plus the pictures didn’t turn out so great.IMG_1102
And this was our elephant Sirkaly (or something similar).IMG_1226

And then it was time to move on again. After all the bananas were fed to Sirkaly we wanted to have breakfast as well. So back to the hotel to have breakfast and to pack our bags and on we moved. We were supposed to have a driver to bring us to Pokhara but he fell victim to the changed circumstances and our agency put us on the tourist bus. Which in itself should not have been a problem, merely a six hour ride instead of four. But that at the narrowest part of road a mountain slide happened and we would get a 10 hour stay on the bus in the end… this was a bit a of a downer. IMG_1241
Water became a rare commodity along the route and resourceful entrepreneurs started a cucumber business.IMG_1243IMG_1248

At least the scenery was beautiful and got only a bit marred by all these buses on the road.

Eventually though we made it into Pokhara, organized a taxi and made our way to Castle Resort Hotel our safe haven up in the hills. Here we met the dutch people again whom we had already met the first night in Kathmandu and the Austrians from Chitwan. We had dinner, Momos for Sylvia and Dal Bhat for me and quickly called it a night. It had really been a very long day. Yours, Pollybert

Looking for a tiger

The next morning started with a 6am wake-up call and shortly afterwards breakfast. A bit after 7am we left for our canoe ride with a group of Czech people. Their tour guide was busy on the phone because she had two persons at the airport in Kathmandu poised to go home but of course this never happened on the day after the earthquake. The airport was closed for a while but she managed to organize them a hotel nearby.

See how happy we look at this time of the day? I am sure I never look this much relaxed in Vienna at 7:30 am.IMG_1059

The canoe ride turned out to be super short after all. We were first told that we would go for the jungle tour in the morning and then after a lunch break at the hotel for the canoe ride. This all changed with the addition of the Czech group and all of a sudden we already started to walk shortly after 8am. In the beginning it was really interesting, searching for animals. Our guide Madan stopped every couple of minutes, listened for a while and then moved on; I had the impression he was doing this solely for the purpose of keeping us tourists happy and on the move. Still, we saw some animals, foots prints of different animals and so on.IMG_1067
The grey blob on the last picture was a rhinoceros, just so you know that we “saw “one. There were actually two, mother and baby rhino.

Then it was finally lunch time because around 11am I started to have enough. Three hours of walking around in the jungle was my personal limit. We came upon a little clearing that looked as if every jungle tour stopped there for lunch. But first we saw some kind of fruit (not edible for humans), had to cross a bridge and saw some leftover antlers. The former attached parts to these had probably been eaten by a tiger said the guide (or maybe the antlers had been conveniently placed there for us tourists). IMG_1390IMG_1075


And then finally we saw the clearing and sat down for lunch which had been packed by the hotel. Hardboiled eggs, a sandwich, an apple, a banana, some cookies and a juice. By then I would have eaten anything (also a tiger), walking around in concentric circles (or so it seemed to me) really made me hungry. Finally I could relax a bit while reading my book; Sylvia used the time to lie down.IMG_1389IMG_1081

Just 30 minutes later we were on the go again, still looking for the imaginary tiger. Ok, maybe not so imaginary because there are still over a hundred tigers living in the Chitwan National Park. Still no tiger in sight which was probably better because we “saw” some foot prints and the longer we walked the more Sylvia freaked out that we were walking around here in this park just waiting to be served up as tiger snack. That was the least of my problems, tiger or no tiger, I just had enough of all this walking. We were promised a tour of three hours and ended up back at the river at 3:30pm. So after seven hours of walking including a short-cut in the wrong direction, I was bone tired and needed a little rest at the hotel.

Refreshed we met again at 5pm to see the elephant breeding station. We drove through the village and stopped at a small river which in monsoon times is way bigger. The bridge over it is removed at the beginning of the monsoon season and installed again after it.IMG_1088IMG_1089

The elephants were less interesting than the bridge, but maybe I am just saturated with all the elephant programs. They were always behind fences and I was not convinced that they looked happy. Sylvia even less, you should have heard her berating the guide.IMG_1092IMG_1093

After a quiet dinner with our German neighbors we went to bed early and got some sleep. Walking in circles made us bone-weary.
Yours, Pollybert


About a week ago Sylvia, Angie and I went for dinner to Yak & Yeti. The restaurant serves authentic Nepalese cuisine and I wanted to make sure that whatever they serve is edible. All with good reason since Sylvia and I are leaving tomorrow for Kathmandu. In case of terrible food I would have packed some snacks. As it turned out this will not be necessary.

IMG_0231 The Yak&Yeti restaurant is located in the back of an old building and has a cozy courtyard which is decorated with little flags in all colors.IMG_0233

The restaurant has themes on three nights a week and we happened to visit on momo night. The place itself is small but fills up quickly; without a reservation I am not sure if we had gotten a table. I also noticed that the tables have a quick turnover. People come for food but do not linger over drinks. IMG_0235
We started with some bread and then quickly ordered the momos which came in four different kind of flavors.IMG_0237IMG_0239

The salad which was served alongside was delicious, the starter bread as well but the momos had a bit of a ‘prepared’ taste; meaning that they must have waited assembled on the plate for a bit. Not too long since they would have been totally dry after a while but long enough to make the dough quite chewy. The fillings inside were of similar texture and taste, so I only could only differentiate between meat and vegetable (which is already something, because some store-bought ravioli taste of sawdust). I liked that you could really get a second helping as advertised but minded that the bill showed one drink too many (I really hate to get cheated on).

In the end what mattered was that the food was edible and it passed this test with flying colors. So upon our arrival on Wednesday I will try the real Nepalese food and will let you know the difference.
Yours, Pollybert


After a week of rain and miserable cold weather (we even started the central heating in the office besides that I already had to put on socks and wrap myself in a shawl) the sun is back in town! Love it, love it, love it!
What more is there to say except that I am going on vacation as well. I am leaving for Greece on Sunday and won’t be back for 10 days. Life cannot get any better than that short of leaving for a year…
But now is not the right time and place to complain about lack of holidays when I am on the cusp of leaving for one. And since we are going to an island which is well-known for its parties, I will leave you with this pearl of wisdom!
Yours, Pollybert

PS: this is actually quite tragic since I am still stupid but not young anymore.